All Cook Should Study Here’: Humble Turkish Dining Spot Secures Fourth on Ranking of London’s Best Food Spots.
Whenever curating a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred venues. However, nestled near the top among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung part of north London.
A Shocking Recognition
The compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the owners totally astonished.
“I am utterly shocked,” states the owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their modest place earning such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.
The Charm of Modesty
The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its earlier character. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.
The Signature Dish: Tantuni
However, it is all down to the food, and this establishment more than delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy texture.
The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.
It is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.
Beyond the Classic Tantuni
Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.
Rising Above the Giants
Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.
While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at many times that figure.
A Creed of Warmth
The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.
“I believe what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”
The sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.
A Path of Dedication
In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.
Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.
“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.
A Accomplishment for the People
The restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo beyond its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this gastronomic triumph.